The oldest public garden in Europe.

Not very far from the historic centre there is the Alameda of Hercules, the leisure area par excellence of Seville. It is a large urban promenade, filled with bars and restaurants, located in between the centre and the Macerena zone. It’s the perfect place to go out, be it during the day or the night, have a good time, have some drinks, and enjoy the most bohemian setting of Seville. 

Notwithstanding, before its renovation a few years ago, this area was known for drugs and prostitution. Because of this, the citizens remember that not so long ago it was one of the worst areas of the city.

However now it’s a space for leisure and atmosphere that doesn’t mean it doesn’t have a great history, as its origin goes back to the Roman times.

Its history

This zone is in the lowest point of the city. This means that when the river burst its banks -a quite regular event-, all of the Alameda was flooded and turned into a little lake. It like this so often, that until the 16^th century it was known as ‘the Lagoon’. In fact, at various times it was necessary to cross it in little boats.

It was in this century of development for Seville that its mayor, the Count of Barajas, decided to drain the area using ditches, improve it and plant Poplar trees in it. This is how its name changed to the ‘Alameda’ (poplar tree is alamo in Spanish), and it became the oldest public garden in the world.  The other name, ‘de Hercules’ (of Hercules) comes from, as decoration they placed two roman columns at the entrance, which came from the ruins of the temple that’s in Marmoles street, on which they placed statues of Hercules and Julius Caesar, the mythical and real founders of Seville.

However, all of this area has always been the most humble of the city, something natural due to its distance from the Cathedral and Alcazar. Therefore, over the centuries, especially due to the low acquisition power of the people, this was inhabited by individuals of a low socio-cultural condition, in the end becoming a problem for its surrounding neighbours. As a result, not many years ago the city hall decided to renovate it, a project that lasted for many years.

The Alameda of today

With its reopening and the improved conditions, the businesses that settled here were new and modern, and little by little, small businesses opened with a fresh bohemian and alternative air.  The Alameda had changed into what it is now.

Almost at the end of it there is a French mansion from the 19^th century known as the Sirena’s House, named after the mermaid statues it used to have at its entrance. Today, it’s a civic centre, and workshops and exhibitions are put on inside. There has always been a certain amount of mystery surrounding it, and they say that there is a ghost living inside …..

In the Alameda there are shops, as well as places to eat and drink.  These tend to be gastro-bars with innovative food, such as Duo Tapas, Chifa or Antojo, although there is traditional food, like the famous Las Columnas, not forgetting the stands which sell pizza portions like Buoni or La Piazza, nor the ice cream parlour Freskura. And for drinks…. There is something of everything!  The best thing to do is to ask for advice from a Sevillian, who knows that you have to follow your instincts and go to the place you fancy that night. El Gigante, the Café Central, the Eureka, or the Tapacopa are some of the classic nightspots of the Alameda.

Not missing out on the clubs either, like the memorable Fun Club, places with board games like Café Piola or jazz bars like the Jazz Naima Sevilla. 

As a flourish they turn on the water fountains during the summer, in which the children and grown-ups don’t hesitate to soak themselves in to withstand the Sevillian heat.  

In short, a bohemian cultural and leisure zone and at the same time a historical area. A complete place.

Images source: 67 – 73 (section 3)